The proper functioning of the skin is necessary for the lipid coat and the presence of natural moisturizing factor (natural moisturizing factor, NMF). In winter there is a change in the composition of the mantle hydro-lipid - lowering the lipids (ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids), is defective skin barrier, which it undergoes dehydration and drying, becomes drawn, tense and rough. Some cosmetics cause her extra sensitivity and alergizację.Cleaning
The first element of winter skin care should be the appropriate treatment. In winter, you should use gentle washing liquid without alcohol - the so-called. soap without soap, lotions, micellar, lotions make-up remover. Accordingly cleansed skin creams is well absorbed, which is a prerequisite for their successful operation.
Humidification
For maintaining proper hydration of the epidermis is responsible NMF - natural moisturizing factor - consisting of amino acids, urea and a polycarboxylic acid. Lipids produced by the skin form a kind of protective seal coat its surface.
Washing has a depletion potential as leaches water-soluble NMF. Normally, the water itself is not sufficient for a thorough cleaning of the skin and need to use the corresponding soaps. Wash consists of three stages: wetting, emulsifying and rinsing. Soap lowers the surface tension of water and has the ability to emulsify grease and dirt. The use of unsuitable products containing strong detergents often causes the skin to become dry, dull and rough. Fortunately, in recent decades, thanks to the development of molecular biology techniques, definitely known structure and physiological functions of the skin. On this basis, we developed new formulations to protect its acidic pH and lipid. Currently, besides the usual soaps are available syndets, gels, emulsions and micellar fluids that do not dry out and irritate.
Dry skin requires a delicate washing agents: milk, lotions micellar formulations containing soap. It should be washed with warm water and gently dry with a soft towel. Dry skin responds well to preparations leaving a protective film, and negative - on water and soap, which cause tightness. Makeup needs to be removed gently, so as not to cause irritation. Ordinary soap wants to replace those containing fatty substances, rebuilding lipid coat and prevent transepidermal water loss.
Oily skin, acne also require the use of gentle cleansers without soap content. Often it re-irritated and desiccated active ingredients of drugs anti-acne and anti-seborrhoeic. Preferably use gels with oil free formula that did not leave on the surface greasy film. Do not use too aggressively active measures, notably on the basis of alcohol, that too intensively interfere with the skin, damage the protective layer and excessively dry out. Many preparations for acne contains antibacterial components which abuse, especially in winter, is not preferred, because they disturb the balance of bacterial flora. The skin is not sterile and treatment of acne is to eliminate bacteria from the surface. Facial cleanser oily skin is best to use water and a soft gel. If after this treatment remains the impression of insufficient cleaning, use a gentle micellar make-up remover.
Sensitive skin, atopic eczema, vascular also requires a mild winter use of cosmetics for sensitive skin susceptible to allergies and with a minimal amount of preservatives, fragrances, colorants and emulsifiers. The ingredients contained in the preparations for the care of the most common substances regenerating lipid: ceramides, fatty acids, B vitamins, thermal water, allantoin, azulenes.
Protection
In the winter of each exit on the air must apply skin cream with properties supporting the function of the epidermis. You should choose preparations greasy (for dry skin) and semi-soft creams lipid of light substrates (for oily skin). Instead, to avoid the use of moisturizing cosmetic intensive because they can cause the freezing of water on the surface of the skin and damage. Moisturizing creams and nutrients may be used for the night. They usually comprise ceramides, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and vitamins.
In winter, you use products containing substances similar to or the same as those found in the skin and leaving on the surface protective layer. Most often they are composed of fats, mineral oils, waxes, silicones. Petroleum jelly is one of the most fats used in cosmetics. Thanks to transepidermal water loss reduced by up to 90 percent. Lanolin and its derivatives have a composition similar to natural sebum. In recent years are very popular vegetable oils, for example. Oil, jojoba oil, avocado. It seems that they have not only a protective action but also nutrients. Excellent cosmetic properties are the natural oils with a high content of unsaturated fatty acids, for example. Linolenic, linoleic, arachidonic. Oils of this group are: linseed, hemp, sunflower, soybean, wheat and corn. A positive effect on the skin are also products containing large amounts of gamma-linolenic acid (evening primrose oil, borage oil and blackcurrant). The extremely valuable component is cholesterol, which in combination with ceramides restores skin's protective barrier.
Also important is the consistency of cream. Oily skin, oily used oil-in-water (O / W), which contain a small amount of fat. In the case of dry skin, reduced in both water and lipids, are effective cosmetic water-in-oil (W / O), which contain more than 60 percent. fat phase. The corresponding ratio of moisturizing and lipid used in cosmetics can effectively restore the balance of water and lipid.
Water retaining substances in the skin include hyaluronic acid, glycerol, propylene glycol, vitamin B5. Some patients have cosmetics enriched with components being part of the NMF,: e.g., amino acids, urea, lactic acid, the sodium salt of polycarboxylic acid. They restore the normal water-lipid mantle.
The biggest problems in the winter make the skin vascular. Blood vessels which shrink under the influence of cold, heat-relax the often rupture, thereby causing telangiectasia (ie. Spiders). Winter is a good time for laser treatments closing dilated blood, preferably using the IPL or laser Nd-YAG Owego.
Not only face
In winter, problems have arisen in the skin of hands. Due to the small sebaceous glands and fairly frequent washing and contact with detergents coat of water-lipid, it is in this area particularly susceptible to damage. Hand skin in the winter is often chapped, dry and even cracked. Therefore, avoid the use of fragrant soaps and emulsion intensely grease your hands after each washing.
There is also significant fat from the skin of the lips, which, due to the specific anatomical structure requires special care. The skin here is thin and prone to drying, which usually manifests itself spierzchnięciem.
UV filters
After decades of campaigns to promote the use of sunscreens patients understand the need for them in the summer, but winter still does not see the need. Meanwhile, even if you were staying in a room with fluorescent lighting, use sunscreen. Cosmetic should contain mostly physical filters, for example. Zinc oxide or titanium dioxide.
Winter treatments
In winter, avoid lotions, astringent substances, camphor, menthol and waterproof cosmetics with heavy substrates, which have to be removed from the surface of the skin using a highly irritating detergents. But this is a good time to dermatological treatments using laser, peeling and mesotherapy. Lasers are used in the treatment of vascular photorejuvenation or depilation. Peelings recommended in winter, which usually are based on alpha-hydroksykwasach, for example. Glycolic, lactic, more often also contain medications such. Retinoids. Keratosis normalize processes in the epidermis, smooth the skin and have a beneficial effect on the dermis, because they stimulate the production of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans. Mesotherapy involves injecting the relevant components directly in the vicinity of the treated skin. It aims to improve the structure and moisture sensitive facial area, eg. The eyes, neck, and shoulders.
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